Spanish Tile Journey, Episode 1: Finally in Spain — Madrid’s Plaza Mayor at Sunrise

A 15-Year Dream Finally Comes True

“Is this really Europe? No, this is Spain.”

As I looked around at the medieval Baroque buildings surrounding Plaza Mayor, I found myself quietly saying those words. The orange façades were glowing red in the morning sun. Four-story buildings with rows of white-framed windows surrounded the square, while arcades on the ground floor were supported by square stone columns.

Fifteen years earlier, in my twenties, I had fallen in love with the idea of visiting Spain. And now, at long last, I was standing in this very square in Madrid.

When I was young, there was a language school beside Ryutan Pond in Shuri, Okinawa. It was there that I first heard about La Tuna from my Spanish teacher. In Spain, I learned, university students have formed musical groups called La Tuna since medieval times. Dressed in traditional costumes, groups of five or six men sing beautiful harmonies, accompanied mainly by guitars.

In Salamanca, in central-western Spain, some people still hire La Tuna to serenade someone they want to propose to. Late at night, the musicians gather outside the woman’s home and suddenly break into song. It may sound romantic, although for the neighbors, it could certainly be considered a nuisance.

They sing a love song known as a serenata and wait for the woman to wake up. If she appears on the balcony, the man presents her with a ring, and the story ends happily ever after. Sometimes, however, it is the woman’s father who appears and sends the entire group away!

“What a romantic country,” I thought. That was what first drew me to Spain.

Looking back, I really believe that dreams can come true if you hold on to them long enough. In my case, it was not a balcony proposal, but finally making it to Spain.

For an ordinary salaried worker supporting a family, finding the money and time for a trip like this was not easy. And yet here I was, standing in front of these medieval Spanish buildings.

I owe it all to the Spanish tiles that eventually brought me here.

A Visit to the World’s Oldest Restaurant

Now, back to Plaza Mayor.

The buildings overlooking the square are mainly residential. The grand building on the north side features ornate decorations and balconies that were once used as viewing platforms for the royal family.

Over the centuries, this vast square has hosted festivals, markets, bullfights, royal coronations, and many other events. It was even the site of executions by burning during the Spanish Inquisition.

Medieval Europe was, in many ways, a dark period when religious freedom was severely restricted. Sadly, even in the 21st century, there are still places in the world where people do not enjoy such freedom.

Leave Plaza Mayor through the Arco de Cuchilleros on the southwest side and walk down Calle de Cuchilleros for a few minutes. On your left, you will find Botín, a small restaurant distinguished by its traditional wooden-paneled façade.

Founded in 1725, Botín is recognized by Guinness World Records as the world’s oldest continuously operating restaurant. The famous Spanish painter Francisco Goya is said to have worked there as a dishwasher when he was young.

The American writer Ernest Hemingway also wrote about Botín in his novel The Sun Also Rises, describing it as one of the finest restaurants in the world.

The restaurant is particularly famous for its roast suckling pig, so if you ever have the chance, I highly recommend making a reservation and giving it a try.

The kitchen at Botín, where whole roast suckling pigs are lined up. Behind them are old geometric-patterned tiles from the Castile region.

Finally, Europe, which had enjoyed a long period of peace, is now facing war.

May peace come to the people of Ukraine as soon as possible.

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